After 15 years of showing during Paris Fashion Week, the Alexander McQueen Fall collection was revealed at home—the label’s home, that is, and the home of the late designer as well as current Creative Director Sarah Burton.
We were told the brand’s fashion week homecoming is due to Burton’s pregnancy—she’s 38 weeks pregnant—and Burton told London’s The Guardian newspaper that the models’ unbuttoned menswear and jewelry-adorned up-dos were due to “women’s obsessions, and flowers that bloom at night.” In the end it might not matter what was behind the elegantly rendered pop culture references—lips, eyes, swans, unicorns—or the floor-sweeping net gowns, and quilted jackets.
The only thing that matters is how stunningly beautiful they were.
The show began with embroidered leather day dresses—if you’re having that kind of day, you’re definitely winning—and then moved into bustiers, ruffles, sheers, pleats and body-bearing cut-aways.
As the dresses got longer, it paid to look down, where embroidered velvet slip-ons put a surprising style note on neo-Victorian floor-lengths. If the house of McQueen is approving alternatives to sky-high heels for evening, it’s definitely time to celebrate the return of the flat.
Quick aside: the shoes in general were really captivating—from feathered architectural height to chunky oxfords, there’s something really lovely and very modern happening in the brand’s footwear leagues—current season included.
The most McQueen moments, though, were those when the most feminine tailoring preceded sharp shoulders and the opulent decadence of royal nonchalance.
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—Laura Cassidy
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