A good opening line is golden and Lea Peckre‘s was just that: “It’s 5 a.m.,” read the programs placed on our seats inside Paris’s Palais de Tokyo. “It’s written all over the dresses, whispered through the pieces.”
And it was: the highlighted hour was both literal and figurative—models had gothic calligraphy stencils of the designer’s time stamp on their necks, and logo pieces came before and after soft sheers (she’s known for them) and street-wise ruffles. Is 5 a.m. the end of the night or the beginning of the next day?
Depends on your perspective, doesn’t it?
Lea noted, through the program and the black-and-white poster that served as the invitation, that her Fall 2016 collection “draws inspiration from that first metro in the morning, a moment of confrontation between early risers and party goers.“
We’ve all been there—on one side or the other—but instead of seeing just the contrast or dichotomy, there were pieces that made me believe the two sides might meet in the middle.
Okay, it would take a little doing for those of us on the way out (to work) rather than the way in (from the club), but the essentials are there—ruffled and ruched and taking plenty of hints from the lingerie drawer and the workout room—check the biker shorts-and-skirt combo worn with commuter sneakers.
Like a lot of collections we’ve seen for the coming season, this one included bright and unapologetic autumn whites. It’s a surefire way to say good morning, and maybe it’s on its way to edging out black as the go-to color for night.
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—Laura Cassidy
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