Last Looks: Tuesday’s Runways at EACH X OTHER and Anrealage

EACH X OTHER founders Ilan Delouis and Jenny Mannerheim’s continued enlistment of street poet Robert Montgomery and his melancholic phrases resulted in a thought-provoking fall presentation Tuesday in Paris.

Images: InDigital

The majority of the collection, which you could easily pluck off the runway and place on the streets for photographers to mob, met the demand for contemporary cool-kid wears with androgynous tailoring and denim sets. Take, for instance, the turtlenecks and their midi dress toppers, paperbag-waist skirts and retro patchwork leather jackets. Then there was the new-age power suiting for the crowds that might not actually work at an office. 

The defining street-style edge could be chalked up to Montgomery’s scratchy embroidered and hand-painted phrases broadcast on the necks, backs and cuffs of layers. Contemplative phrases like “Poetry finally kills ‘celebrity culture’” and “Seagulls are low planes on fire” demonstrated the brand’s aim of combining concept and craft into wearable threads.

While we’ve seen our share of space-age collections in the past three weeks, Anrealage’s Kunihiko Morinaga opted for a different, more technological take on the futuristic trend. The designer took it all the way, presenting the TV static-print clothes inside four sheer gauze walls that transmitted interchanging checked and floral patterns when models approached them. Static white noise played as odd strong-shouldered cropped sweaters, stiff woolen wide legs and cocooning shoulder coats morphed into asymmetrical blazer and skirt combos that gave the illusion of being misbuttoned and askew. Closing numbers came with their own plastic overlays, whether utilitarian and bound in nature or engulfing and boxy like their base layer frocks.

—Emma Ranniger

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