“I feel like the fashion landscape has changed drastically and in some ways I’m very happy to change with it,” rag & bone creative director Marcus Wainwright told us on Thursday afternoon. And when “change” means ditching the logistical obstacles and inescapable anxiety of a runway show in favor of a party, well, who wouldn’t be happy with that?
To be fair, the downtown New York City brand’s NYFW kick-off wasn’t just a party; it was a photography-centric, multimedia retrospective gallery show and a party. With a taco cart, Thom Yorke in the DJ booth, and oversized, archival images of some of the world’s favorite personalities wearing one of the world’s favorite brands. It was, at its core, the 15th anniversary of a modern classic.
Photography has always been central to the rag & bone vibe. Along with a commitment to old-school tailoring techniques, gorgeous fabrications and forward-moving classics, it’s a brand that loves visual storytelling and meaningful art-world collaborations. And while it’s true that everyone there was asking where the fall ’17 collection was (it was right there, photographed and hung on the north wall), they were also completely captivated by the projected skate video clips and collaged editorial outtakes.
In staged and candid moments—in frames by Mark Borthwick and Glen Luchford, in black and white and vivid hues—there were a decade and a half worth of iconic military jackets, stand-out denim, irresistible sweaters, and sporty-sleek dresses. It was lovely, and as much as fashion loves a dramatic, choreographed live show, we’re sure no one really missed the runway.
Click through our favorite scenes—including snaps of next season’s collection in the Fall/Winter 17 Photo Project—and then keep scrolling for our pre-party chat with Marcus and rag & bone’s brand new video.
Oh, and if you’re going to be in the icy-cold environs of New York City this weekend, you’re invited to stop by, too—the rich images and moving pictures are on display from 1 to 4 at 60 Tenth Avenue (not far from the Whitney Museum of Art) through Sunday, February 12.
Even creative director Marcus Wainwright (above) appeared in a photograph. Taking a photograph.
The Thread: What do you remember feeling before your very first New York fashion week show and how does it compare to your emotions and stress levels now, 15 years later?
Marcus: Terror and mostly tiredness now.
What was of utmost importance to you back then?
I think the same thing that is important now: the quality, the integrity of the clothes, and the individuality of the people who wear them.
Tell us about the decision not to do a traditional show. What were your goals around getting the anniversary and fall ’17 message out, and how does this party and exhibit accomplish that?
Really a show didn’t feel like the right thing for us to be doing. We always challenge ourselves to do something different, and our anniversary was a good opportunity to celebrate our love of photography—to celebrate some of the content we’ve created in the last ten, twelve years. And it felt like a good time to rethink how we showed our new collection.
The crafted, handmade attention to detail of rag & bone is so integral to what you do; what’s at the heart of that obsession?
I mean, shouldn’t life just be about that? It is something we have always done. We are incredibly proud of how the clothes are made. We have always valued quality and craftsmanship above disposable fashion—and I think the world is becoming more and more aware of how important that is.
What will you do after the event?
Go home and pass out.
EXPLORE: current-season rag & bone | all designer collections
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