Nordstrom Fashion Blog: Souvenirs from Kenzo’s Pan-Global Expedition

Since 2011 the house of Kenzo has been under the creative direction of Opening Ceremony co-founders Carol Lim and Humberto Leon. When we last talked to them—at last season’s show—the topic (and the collection’s theme) was tribes, a holdover from the original Kenzo, Mr. Takada. Fictional clans and global, self-sufficient kinfolk are a common resting place; as Leon told me, they’re part of the brand’s DNA.

Next spring’s family of women is a nomadic one. Early Sunday morning out in the 19th arrondisement of Paris, Leon explained that these women are all about their journey, and the souvenirs they pick up along the way.

And how better to see a friend’s travel keepsakes than up close? Find out where this trip takes the imaginary wanderers (hint, they need swimsuits—really good swimsuits), and get close-ups of the textures, patterns and silhouettes they’re bringing back home.

When I clarified that Leon and Lim’s tribe seemed to be gathering items related to swimming and beaching, Leon quickly confirmed. The duo put a big emphasis on bathing suits and built the collection from there.

“Often times when Carol travels she will just wear a swimsuit under her outfit in case there’s somewhere to go stop off,” he told me.

And we’ve all been there—metaphorically and otherwise.

There’s a certain way to dress in preparation of the random body of water, and a way that you rebuild your outfit afterward. Let’s just steal a page from ski culture and call it apres swim.

But the first thing you should know is that these suits are fully capable of holding their own all on their own. Still, in a few cases, skirts long and mini as well as small, strappy, sometimes cropped tops were added for full all-one looks.

Shoes (aqua socks!) included.

In addition to the overtly aquatic styles, there was a strong sport vibe that came through in motocross-style knits and subtle nautical elements.

And because apres swim means anything can happen and probably will (especially in the world of these women), Leon and Lim went all the way to ruffles and maxi-dresses. Throughout the collection there is a consistent thread of omni-ethnic mixed patterns and prints, and here those countered the feminine shapes with a sort of track-meet-uniform practicality.

It’s like if the Tour de France had a gala, and a gift shop.

So there were the swim pieces and the party dresses, and then there were the ready-to-wear pieces for the day-to-day. This subset had it’s own color story; earthy mustard as well as bright yellow, which paired back to the cheery blue seen in other looks.

Oh and gold. Brassy, textural gold emerged as well, because sometimes when you’re out of town, you go out on the town.

Now: shoes and bags. Very important elements of any excursion.

Gladiator sandals have dominated the spring runways. They’ve been everywhere—but not yet all the way up the thigh. Kenzo has a few variations on the theme, but it’s the thigh-high version that will trademark the collection. Here, a stylist’s assistant preps a pair before the models arrive.

The very tribal-looking tote below seems inspired by furoshiki cloth; other clutch styles were accented with chunky, industrial hardware, and yes, there was a fanny pack—or more correctly: belt pack—or two. Are they back? Did they every go away? The Kenzo crew is into them, and if you’re smart enough to let them to be your tour guides, that’s really all that matters.