In a one-season-only engagement, Shayne Oliver designed the spring/summer 2018 collection for Helmut Lang, the pioneering designer brand. Billed as “Helmut Lang Seen by Shayne Oliver,” Oliver’s characteristically daring collection premiered at New York Fashion Week in an emporium filled with scaffolding, lights, speakers, and other purely functional decor–thrilling a packed-in crowd featuring a who’s-who of popular music.
Read more about the show and see a full slideshow below.
SHOP: Helmut Lang
The clothes were a gender-fluid combination of Helmut Lang’s strapped-in aesthetic and Oliver’s downtown NYC style, made famous by his recently defunct brand Hood By Air. Colors were black and white with shades of red (cherry, bronze, pink). Themes included industrial hardness, resolute modernism, and logo-heavy streetwear. Oliver was free with his approach: he turned the idea of dressing inside out (oversized bras worn over coats), lampooned business casual (clear plastic briefcases, trenches with exposed armpits), and provided glamorous red carpet looks (sheer gowns, crinkly metallic leather suits).
Mixed in was a capsule collection of “tour merch,” logo tees that will be sold at Nordstrom very shortly: Oliver’s way of giving the people what they want and pushing the Helmut Lang brand.
Music stars came out in full force–Diplo, Lil Yachty, A$AP Ferg, Dev Hynes, Cardi B, Offset from the Migos–and the soundtrack to the event by Oliver’s friend, the DJ and producer Total Freedom, was ideal. As ominous noises segued into the pure beauty of Whitney Houston’s “I Have Nothing,” the music was just like the clothes, abrasive and heavenly.
Photos by InDigital
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