Fashion has come to expect a poetic gesture from Dries Van Noten, but Wednesday’s runway presentation was really something special. It was an unseasonably warm and sunny day in Paris, but as soon as we entered the loftlike space, we encountered at least a visual chill: gorgeously rich and natural floral arrangements frozen in ice blocks, melting in a staggered row down the center of the room.
Though the frosted arrangements (the work of cult botanical artist Azuma Makoto) didn’t actually lower the temperature, the allusion was crystal clear. Spring is that magical thing that happens inside of and because of the bitter cold. From the dark of winter come the most beautiful flowers.
After the show we hopped in the car with VP of designer apparel Jennifer Wheeler and Tricia Smith, executive vice president of women’s and designer. While they sat in the backseat reviewing the shots they snapped with their phones during the show and noting the colors, the sleeve shapes, the shoes, that yellow bomber … we nabbed some of Jennifer’s thoughts.
“He really took the floral idea and interpreted it in so many different ways. It could be an all-over pattern, or it was more abstract.”
“Dries makes real clothes, even when they have embellishment and amazing details, they’re clothes to wear, they’re not spectacles. The outerwear, the blouses—it’s a true sportswear collection that also happens to be fashion.”
“Women of any age and every shape love Dries; it’s an inclusive and enveloping brand. So many different women love to wear it.”
“It’s really the type of collection where you can easily add pieces as you go along. Each season always mixes back to the others; there’s never a huge disconnect from spring to fall or fall to spring, you can always put them together. It just really lends itself to easy incorporation.”
A note on the musical element as well, because it’s never overlooked with Van Noten.
The first few looks had no music at all but the amplified sound of water dripping—as if off ice. And then, mixed among more ambient music, a version of the Sheila E. and Prince track “A Love Bizarre,” and then Madonna, singing softly about melting a frozen heart.
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