A simple color scheme doesn’t always mean plain clothing, something demonstrated by Rodarte’s fall collection which proved the power of texture.
Image: InDigital
Designing siblings Kate and Laura Mulleavy are prone to referencing a medley of influences, invariably taking us into a world of eccentric fantasy. This season, San Francisco, Art Nouveau and their golden years at Berkley fused into a hard take on lace frills. The frenzy of embellishment began with skirts featuring ruffled piping in alternating patches of leather and Western style sequins, while lace and mesh were worked into every form, from ’80s-style joggers to tiered bridal dresses hand-embroidered with sequined flowers. Mismatched earrings in every shape and size carried the mélange of moodiness down to the details.
SHOP: current season Rodarte
Modern layers dominated Narciso Rodriguez‘s fall collection, abandoning air-tight tailoring for laid-back lines and flowing silhouettes.
Image: InDigital
Similar to his Spring ’16 collection, Rodriguez worked in simple colors–this time sourcing earthy greens and browns–that relied on their meticulously placed layers and new-wave textures over patterns and embellishments. Bias cuts (he’s perfected it) favored structure over ease. All the same, these soft shapes felt authoritative and smart. Wrinkled robes with oversized, angular collars kicked off the show, followed by a storm of asymmetrical skirts, dresses and tops cleverly layered over silk slips and slim trousers. Carefully placed angular tiers on shirts and dresses created a pleasing Russian doll layering effect. Yet the engulfing patent leather jacket is sure to be a street-style standout.
SHOP: current season Narciso Rodriguez
Beating everyone at the ’70s revival, Alice + Olivia‘s Stacey Bendet has already moved on from the free-spirited bohemian flower child to the gritty city dweller of the disco era.
Image: Nordstrom Instagram
Bendet wanted to return to a time when NYC was still a hub for cultural revolutions, when empowered women dressed the part in powerful prints and aggressively wide pants. Her collection, and its presentation, conjured the women’s liberation movement of the ’70s–with its array of women trying on different occupations, hobbies and hemlines. And yet this colorful time was awkwardly placed just before the dawn of yuppie-dom. In this collection, bowed blouses and Lurex sweaters outfitted the working girls, while gypsy-inspired palazzo pants and matching floor-length party frocks prepared her for life beyond the office. Volume and color really turned up, as did risqué slits, on full-length dress (paired with tiny shorts for modesty) and metallic brocade dusters with matching flare trousers.
SHOP: current season Alice + Olivia
Tory Burch was in her groove Tuesday night, revealing a fall offering of East Coast equestrian duds that align with her preppy design mantra.
Image: InDigital
Reworked, flowing silk jockey uniforms (the diamond motif proving to be a recurring theme) and patent leather, patchwork stripe midi skirts brought the equine-loving factor. Even the most overt horse prints seemed like renditions of classic Japanese wave woodcuts, mixed with suede knee-highs and colorblocked wool wrap coats for innovative takes on sportswear classics. Not to miss out on Fashion Week’s retro trends, Burch managed to work in a few micro print florals and shag-collared, pastel check pantsuits with the appropriate wide, cuffed leg.
SHOP: current season Tory Burch
—Emma Ranniger
via Nordstrom Fashion Blog http://ift.tt/1ROIkDz
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