“Oh, yes, she and Dries are in love with each other,” said Griet Vandekerckhove of Dries Van Noten‘s Belgian sales team. She was speaking of Iris Apfel, the 94-years-young American interior designer, style icon and documentary film star. Mrs. Apfel had suddenly appeared in the dark, rectangular runway room in the 8th arrondissement as Jennifer Wheeler, Nordstrom’s VP of designer apparel and I were talking to Griet about the collection—the perfect coincidence.
Griet says Van Noten was inspired primarily by the eccentric Italian heiress Luisa Casati and her lover, the poet and playwright Gabriele D’Anunzio. But who can think of eccentrics without thinking of Mrs. Apfel—particularly if you’re really good friends with her?
As we watched a collection of extra-textural, overtly decadent metallic and velvet looks come down the runway, we were especially drawn to the Apfel-like accessories, the D’Anunzio-rooted menswear, and the wild, animal-printed outerwear. For lovers of smart contrast and elegant clashing, Fall 2016 is going to be a really, really rich time.
First, those accessories. Check that giant ring in the first image above—we’re certain Mrs. Apfel is already wearing it. Furthermore, as Griet and Jennifer discussed pre-show, the now ultra on-trend feather owes a lot of its popularity to Van Noten and he isn’t abandoning it any time soon. Check the feather chokers pictured throughout these images; the trend-on-trend accoutrement was a runway staple. And please don’t overlook the shoes and handbags.
In terms of suits there were wonderful variations: traditionals in patterns in jacquards and neo-trad, or, in other words, pajama sets.
Next, those exclamatory statement-making toppers. From leopard-like capes and shawls that might have come straight from Luisa Casati’s closet to the robe coats—that instant signifier of wealth and leisure—you can officially look forward to keeping your coat on. (Although if you’re a Dries fan, that’s already a way of life.)
As I said last time I was in Paris, a Dries collection is a Dries collection in the best of all possible ways. To that end, several perfectly layered looks and singular sheaths were sent out, too. They’re the designer’s hit songs, and all of us sang right along.
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—Laura Cassidy
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